TSIGARELLI – ΤΣΙΓΑΡΕΛΙ In spring, certain tender greens, both bitter and sweet, are picked to make tsigarelli, a dish of blanched greens sauteed with onions, herbs, olive oil, and—traditionally—reddened with paprika or chile pepper. Today the dish has been modified considerably and is more likely to get its color mainly from tomatoes. Tsigarelli is not exclusive to Corfu—it is found throughout the Ionian […]

KOLOKITHOKORFATHES ME SKORTHO KAI SELINORIZA In Greece in the late spring, zucchini flowers fill up the markets. There are 2 kinds: the large sturdy flowers that grow on the stalk of the zucchini plant and the smaller, more fragile ones that sprout out of the actual zucchini. Greeks generally prefer the sturdier ones because they’re easier to work with. These […]

HTAPODOSOUPA This soup traditionally calls for dried octopus, not the easiest thing to find either in America or in urban Greece, so I have reworked it a little for fresh octopus. Makes 6 to 8 servings Ingredients: 1 medium fresh or frozen octopus (about 3 pounds), cleaned if necessary 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup dry white […]

LEFKADITIKI HAVIAROSOUPA Makes 8 servings Ingredients: 5 pounds cockles or any other small fresh clams 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 fresh green garlic stalks, coarsely chopped, or 3 scallions, white and tender green parts, chopped, combined with 2 garlic cloves, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup medium-grain polished rice Juice of 2 […]

GALOPOULA AVGOLEMONO Sometime after the sixteenth century, turkey arrived in Corfu from the West. There is some disagreement as to who first brought it. If its name is any indication, then the turkey came with the French, since its name in Greek, galopoula, translates literally as “French bird.” Regardless of its provenance, today it is still the Christmas meal in Corfu. […]

The World’s Most Basic Soup ZOUPA Makes 4 servings This dish is the apotheosis of the trinity of Mediterranean flavors—wheat, wine, and olive oil. “It’s just like the akraton — the breakfast of bread and undiluted wine—that the ancients used to eat.” At first I thought it was one of those dishes, like so many others, lost to time, […]

MOSTARDA DOLCE Zakynthos and Corfu both make sweet mustards, vestiges of English and Venetian rule. The mustards, made either with quince, as in this recipe, or with dried fruits, are eaten at Christmas with roast turkey, game, pork, or other meats. Makes about 4 cups Ingredients: 3 quinces, peeled and cored 1 quart Mavrodaphne wine or sweet port 1 […]

AYIATHA TIS KERKYRAS Another take on the pan-Mediterranean garlic sauce that accompanies fried fish and boiled vegetables. But Corfu’s version of ayiatha, as it is pronounced in the local dialect, calls for bread and almonds, as opposed to potatoes, as the base. Vinegar makes this garlic sauce slightly harsher in flavor than those that call for lemon juice. Locals tend to […]

ALIATHA TIS KEFALONIAS This is nothing more than the island’s own skordalia, the pungent dipping sauce made with potatoes and lots of garlic. Two things define the Cephalonian version: Aliatha is always made with potatoes and always with fish broth, preferably made from cod bones. It has a strong, acidic flavor since Greeks are not shy about using either garlic or […]

PANADA Kitchen economy in Greece, indeed in the whole Mediterranean, once required that home cooks make use of every last bit of food. There are lots of old dishes made with leftover bread. Most call for simmering small bits of stale bread in some kind of broth or milk or sometimes just in plain water with a little olive oil and […]