SKARTSOTSETTA

Here’s a dish that some claim was the invention of Zakynthian and Corfiote taverna owners, but others, more wisely, point to Venice as the source of its provenance. (Skartsotsetta—at least etymologically— probably derives from the Italian scartocetti for “packets” because of the way the thinly sliced veal isstuffed, rolled, and braised.) Regardless of its origins, the dish has evolved to become one of the Seven Islands’ Sunday lunchtime classics, as well as a standard on many taverna menus.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Ingredients:

For the sauce:

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium-large onion, very finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 1/2 cups peeled, seeded, and chopped plum tomatoes (canned are fine)
• 1 cup dry red wine
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Dried oregano to taste

For the filling:

• 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 cup finely crumbled Greek feta cheese
• 1/2 cup grated graviera cheese
• 1/3 cup plain bread crumbs from stale bread
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 large egg yolks

To make the rolls and cook:

• 2 pounds veal cutlets, pounded thin
• 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil, as needed

Method:

1. Make the sauce: Heat the olive oil in amedium pot over medium heat and cook the onion and garlic, stirring, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Add the wine and bring to a boil again. Season with salt, pepper, and oregano. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer the sauce, uncovered, until thick, about 30 minutes.

2. Make the filling: In a large bowl, combine the parsley, garlic, cheeses, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix in the egg yolks well.

3. Season the cutlets with salt and pepper. Spread each of the cutlets with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the filling, leaving a little room around the edges. Following the grain of the meat, roll up each cutlet and secure closed with several toothpicks or small metal skewers. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet and cook the rolled cutlets over high heat, turning, to brown on all sides. As soon as the rolls
are browned, pour the tomato sauce into the skillet, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the meat is cooked through and tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot.